The Rhythm of the River

Entering the Canyon

We are finally back in California after our 24 day rafting trip on the Colorado River through Grand Canyon National Park. We had almost given up hope of ever gaining the required permits when an old rafting accomplice called and offered us two spaces on his ticket. Without hesitation, we jumped at the opportunity and what followed has to be one of the best experiences we've ever had, our pictures and description barely do it justice. The majesty of the canyon, the warmth of our companions and the clarity that gradually settles after spending time in the untamed wilderness all combine to instill a sense of serenity so easily lost in a complex world. Clearing or minds of the snow-globe clutter  of thoughts and concerns surrounding the last minute preparations for our impending departure came as a welcome relief and a fitting closure to this chapter of our lives. With the sun as our time keeper and the river, our pace setter, we surrendered ourselves to a more primal rhythm. The sounds of traffic and TV's were replaced with laughter, song and the crackle of the campfire, all underscored by the whispers and roars of wind and water. As the night engulfed us and the embers cooled a thin ribbon of starry sky meandered between the towering canyon walls. Sleep came easily to our tired bodies, quieting the flutters of excitement as we contemplated the rapids awaiting us downstream.

One of the many spectacular side hikes

The whitewater, though challenging, was well within the capabilities of our experienced group and we navigated each rapid with only one minor upset in 280 miles. The countless side canyons provided many opportunities to supplement our river exploits with challenging hikes and our fearless leader, Greg, was keen to explore them all. If he ever offers you a seat on a rafting trip in Nepal expect to summit Everest as a 'side hike'.

Enjoying the view from the Kanab Granaries

Our journey took us from Lee's Ferry, just downstream of the Glen Canyon Dam, to Pearce Ferry, on Lake Mead. All our equipment, food and beer for 24 days was strapped into three eighteen foot oar rafts and we brought along several kayaks so we could take turns either rowing or kayaking. A typical day involved rising with the sun, preparing a breakfast of coffee, cereal and bagels before breaking camp, packing the rafts and putting on the river. We approached each rapid with the necessary precautions, closing up our spacing and looking out for each other, some of the bigger rapids required scouting so we would pull over above each one and discuss suitable lines and contingency plans. By midday we would chose a  beach for lunch and, perhaps, a short hike before continuing downstream. If we hadn't already agreed on a campsite, the late afternoon would see us checking out appropriate spots. There seemed to be a wealth of options and, with so few other boaters in the canyon, we always found a great beach with plenty of room. Arriving at camp, everyone would begin unloading the boats and setting up tents, a kitchen and the campfire and, before long, a hot meal was being prepared. Ceiba, our outfitter in Flagstaff had provided an incredible selection of food, plentiful and healthy, which was so well packed we still had ice in our coolers by day 21. Those of us not involved in preparing dinner would explore the surrounding area and the, seemingly endless, side canyons. After a welcome dinner the dishes were quickly taken care of and we would gather by the campfire as night fell.

Don't slip