Ziggy and the art of motorcycle maintenance.

Day 62

Milage 4735

Well, we are finally on our second visit to Switzerland, we tried leaving Germany only to be drawn back by the exceptionally fine beer , the generous hospitality and the chance to attend the BMW Motorrad Days festival in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, a motorcycle event of epic proportions

Relaxing in camp outside Augsburg, Germany

Since leaving Banberg we followed the advice of our camp host yet again and took the scenic route to Heidelberg. Once more his recommendation took us to a wonderful twisting empty road leading to the novel little city on the banks of the Neckar River. We arrived late on Sunday to explore the city as darkness fell, the cool evening providing a welcome respite from one of the hottest days we’ve had to date. By now the bikes were overdue for some attention, oil needed changing, filters replaced and chains lubricated so we decided to establish ourselves for a few days outside a major city where we could find the necessary supplies. Stuttgart was nearby so we wound our way up into the Black Forest and stumbled upon the village of Hofen which had a comfortable campsite alongside a crystal clear creek.  Here we were able to take care of all our basic bike maintenance needs while having an opportunity to explore the city of Stuttgart. We tracked down a BMW motorcycle store and, as always, felt thoroughly violated after paying a premium for some basic supplies. It was therapeutic to work on the bikes, even when a magnificent thunderstorm broke loose overhead during the oil change, and both machines responded well to the attention. A Hungarian biker, Ziggy Kiss, we’d met in Amsterdam had a different philosophy on the art of motorcycle maintenance. He argued the amount of time spent fixing mechanical failures after they have occurred is far outweighed by the time and effort spent taking preventative action. We have considered applying this logic to one of our bikes and comparing the result but we can’t yet agree on whose bike we want to neglect. It seems strange, even though they are just machines, after riding them for the best part of each day it is hard not to become attached to them.

A bad hair day in the German Alps

The city of Stuttgart turned out to be a little disappointing, aesthetically, when compared to where we have been over the previous few weeks. It felt a little too officious and business like, more impersonal and for the first time in Germany we noticed the extremes of wealth and poverty, the destitute begging for change outside boutique stores selling overpriced trinkets for the uber rich. After a few days exploring the area we broke camp and moved further East. Augsburg became home for the next five days.  A sizable city, close to Munich, it is home to the first ever artificial whitewater course created for the 1972 Olympic kayak slalom event and a great area for getting a feel for the Bavarian side of the German republic. We spent a full day in Munich which coincided with a BMW sponsored marathon, live music and mini beer festival. A party atmosphere filled the streets and we couldn’t resist sampling some of the local beverages. Traditional bands played along as young men in tight lederhosen cracked whips overhead, Beth seemed quite impressed and suddenly developed a new found interest in traditional Bavarian music. 

We followed our visit to Munich with a sombre day at Dachau, exploring the remains of the first concentration camp from the third reich era, a prototype for the horrors that followed. It is hard to imagine how such a place came to be but a chilling museum within the camp reflected on the power of propaganda on a population whose economy lay in ruins. Matin Niemoller’s statement hung over the faded pictures of those who suffered under conditions of sickening barbarity.

"Labour makes you free" Dachau 

“First they came for the communists,
and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a communist.

Then they came for the socialists,
and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a socialist.

Then they came for the trade unionists,
and I didn't speak out because I wasn't a trade unionist.

Then they came for me,
and there was no one left to speak for me.”

As always with motorcycle travel things wear out and need replacing and not just on the bikes. Our next project involved chasing down a new set of tires, four in all, for both bikes. Unfortunately German law prevented us from buying the tires we wanted as these are not rated for autobahn speeds of over 150mph. Luckily, with the help of friends in Switzerland, we were able to order what we needed and have them shipped and fitted there. Another tip from a knowledgable local took us over the Ammersattel Pass through Linderhoff where we stopped to explore one of King Ludwig II extravagant palaces. A chance encounter with a motorcycle tour group leader alerted us to the upcoming BMW motorcycle festival in Garmisch-Partenkirchen from July 5th to the 7th. We had a rough plan of where we’d like to be by then but we often travel with open agendas and follow the advice and suggestions from locals we meet along the way so we decided to return after picking up our new tires in Switzerland. No visit to this region would be complete, however, without a stop at the fairytale castle of Neuschwanstein, the inspiration for the iconic Disney logo. Commissioned by the reclusive Ludwig II as a personal refuge it dominates the landscape overlooking the village of Schwangau and cost him his entire personal fortune and possibly his sanity. Ironically he didn’t live to see its completion. It is still an impressive landmark and we spent the day hiking through the surrounding mountains, taking a much needed break from our long days in the saddle. We are slowly becoming accustomed to the huts which appear at the top of the most impressive peaks, each one a safe haven from the changeable weather and a great place to pick up a cold beer on a hot day. 

Neuschwanstein Castle, Fussen, Germany

From Germany we followed more local advice and rode into the clouds enveloping the Hahntennjoch Pass, the wet roads and freezing temperatures at the summit added to the feeling of exposure as we could only imagine what lay beyond the edge of the road. Cold and wet we dropped into Austria and through to the small town of Scuol, in Switzerland,  where we were greeted by hospitality so warm and generous we soon forgot about our own discomfort. We’d stopped here on the banks of the Inn River to catch up with an old friend and whitewater legend, Kyle Spinney but as he was still entertaining clients in a raft, his friend Hamish Guthrie, opened his doors and made us feel like old friends within seconds. We partied hard and by 3am , still in our motorcycle gear, we called it a night. Two of our tires had arrived but the others were still in transit so we spent the next few days rafting and hiking and enjoying the spectacular village of Scuol. One of the most beautiful in Switzerland, it was established as a health spa and on every street spring water flows from fountains each one with its own unique properties, some are even naturally carbonated. Each one is a source of delicious and refreshing water and we gorged ourselves, trying to rehydrate after weeks on the road. Eventually our tires arrived and it was time to hit the road again. Hamish and his house mates provided a list of recommendations for roads and passes to take us back to Germany and we stitched together a route encompassing seven major Alpine passes, looping down into Italy, back through Austria and North into Bavaria. We had heavy rain on the first day but the sun appeared on the second and we pulled into Garmisch-Partenkirchen on the afternoon of July 4th, exactly ten years after Beth and I first met in a small bar in California. In two days we’d ridden some of the most renowned motorcycle roads in Europe and arrived at the biggest BMW motorcycle gathering we’d ever seen.

Stelvio Pass, biking heaven, Italian Alps

From Friday July 5th through Sunday July 7th the German city of Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the Bavarian Alps played host to the 13th annual BMW Motorrad Days festival. This year BMW celebrated their 90th year in the motorcycle production industry with an event to remember. With an estimated 35,000 riders and enthusiasts in attendance from all over the world ,the streets, campgrounds and hotels were swarming with every model of BMW old and new.  The event site  covered an expansive area becoming its own village of vendors, attractions, exhibitions, beer halls and food stalls. A further 15,000 square meters of fully serviced campgrounds surrounded the site providing a suburb of nylon and canvas. Bikers came from all over the world, a large contingent from Malaysia completed their own overland tour by riding into the event on Friday afternoon, we saw license plates from many different parts of Europe but only two others from the USA, Dawn and Paul, two intrepid travelers on their own journey to Mongolia who we’ve bumped into twice before, in Belgium and the UK. A mere 80 kilometers from Munich, event organizers drew on the expertise acquired over decades of Oktoberfest celebrations and there was enough food and beer to satisfy an army of adventure riders. 

Beth putting the F700GS to the test

An off road enduro park allowed riders to test the GS fleet with everything from the big 1200 Adventure to the 650 single available. Under the expert guidance of the BMW instructors, riders with varying degrees of ability were able to experience what these bike could do in more challenging terrain. We had so much fun we couldn’t help but have a second go. For those wanting to experience how the motorcycles handled on the road the entire current fleet of BMW motorcycles were available for test rides and we’re not talking about a quick spin around the parking lot. 90 minutes of pure joy was had as we raced a selection of bikes through alpine passes, along side pristine lake, past lush meadows and back to the event site. After so many weeks on our fully loaded enduro bikes we couldn’t resist trying something a little lighter and more responsive. The F800R, the K1300R and the breathtaking 193 hp S1000RR provided just the thrills we were looking for. For the more traditional enthusiast a special exhibition of the classic milestones of brand history was housed under the ‘90 years of BMW Motorrad’ tent. The main exhibition tent included all the current models included the new R1200GS and the extended range F800GS Adventure. BMW technicians and mechanics were on hand to answer questions regarding bike performance and suitable modifications.

Camping in Garmisch

Keeping the crowds entertained were a multitude of shows, parties and displays. Gravity defying acrobats sped over the creaking wooden planks of the world’s oldest Motordrom. Stunt legend Chris Pfeiffer performed impossible tricks in the event arena, even putting a 1200GS through its paces and an onsite cinema featured inspiring movies of motorcycle journeys taken throughout the world. Each evening culminated in an enormous party with live bands, motorcycle raffles and a staggering amount of food and beer. For those who preferred a more relaxed evening there was live guitar music provided by the very talented Byron around an open camp fire. By Sunday morning, as the Metropolitan Jazz Band from Prague entertained the breakfast crowds, the weekend event gradually began to wind down and by late afternoon swarms of motorcyclists took to the roads in every possible direction, some beginning, some ending or, like us, continuing their adventures on two wheels. For those who ride and even those who don’t this has to be one of the highlights of the motorcycle calendar and should be considered on everyone’s agenda. Book early though, with an event this good, it’s only likely to get bigger each year. 

Chris Pfeiffer on the 1200GS

We reluctantly packed up on Monday morning and, on the recommendation of several bikers we’d met over the weekend, took and exciting series of Alpine passes down to Innsbruck in Austria. What we’d thought would be a quiet night at a small campsite turned out to be an extension of the party atmosphere we’d left behind in Germany as several bikers joined us from Israel and the UK. A shaky start the following morning saw us following yet more advice and climbing over even more spectacular winding passes back into Switzerland towards the village of Scuol alongside the Inn river. As welcome as we were made to feel we, sadly, had to push on as our rough schedule for Europe was beginning to get pushed further behind so after one night in Scuol and a few too many glasses of fine single malt we fired up our engines and took to the road, this time, bound for Interlaken.

Road testing BMW's fastest on some of Europe's finest roads